I NEEDED A STRIP SOFTBOX SO I MADE ONE (updated)

January 11, 2015  •  Leave a Comment

I just couldn't find one that I had confidence in using my speed lights and the ones available are expensive especially when you don't know when you might use them again. I want to do an experiment so we'll see how it turns out.  If you are interested I used some things laying around.
 

STRIP LIGHT FROM 6 INCH DRAIN PIPESTRIP LIGHT FROM 6 INCH DRAIN PIPECut the hole in the pipe this is 5 inch. Line the inside of the pipe with silver tape.
 
STRIP LIGHT BOTTOM AND TOPSTRIP LIGHT BOTTOM AND TOPCover the inside of the caps to help with reflected light. No need to glue the top and bottom. I may shorten later.
 

 I used some 6 inch drain pipe (update, I wish I would have used 4 inch) and cut an opening leaving some room at the top and bottom to place caps.  I lined the inside of the pipe with silver tape used to repair duct work found at the box stores.  One roll is enough for two lights.  Cover both insides of the caps to help bounce the light through the opening.  I chose a five inch opening. The length is 32 inches.  I did not glue the ends on so you can start with a larger size.
 

 

STRIP LIGHT FLASH BRACKETSTRIP LIGHT FLASH BRACKETMeasure and cut a hole slightly larger than the speed light. I lined with weather stripping to cushion and take up the slack.
 
MOUNT BRACKET FOR STRIP LIGHTMOUNT BRACKET FOR STRIP LIGHTManfrotto 5/8 short stud and impact swivel umbrella adapter which I will leave on the light so I don't have to look for parts when I need the stand.
 

 Measure and cut a hole in an end cap to fit your speed light.  I oversized and added some weather stripping.  This end cap can be the top or bottom however, make sure you do something to hold the flash on.  to mount the light on a stand I used a Manfrotto 5/8th short stud and Impact swivel umbrella adapter.  I am going to dedicate the adapter to stay with the light so any stand will do.

 

FABRICK FASTENING TO PIPEFABRICK FASTENING TO PIPEDouble sided tape is applied to the opening all four sides.
 
FABRICK FASTENING TO PIPEFABRICK FASTENING TO PIPEPeel back the tape. You may want to only do some at a time so the fabric doesn't grab too soon.
 

To attach the fabric use double sided tape around the opening.  I split the tape in two.  Peel the back off the tape a little at a time.  It helps with positioning the fabric and makes it easier if you have to adjust.  The fabric sticks easily.  I used parachute material.  The heavier the material the more light lost.

 

APPLY FABRIC TO TAPEAPPLY FABRIC TO TAPEI used parachute material working down the pipe. Leave a little on the sides to help peel the fabric off if you need to.
 
FINISHED THE FABRICFINISHED THE FABRICDon't worry about some wrinkles.
 

Start at the top and work down.  Leave an inch or so on the sides loose so you can take it off.  It doesn't matter if there are some wrinkles.

 


 
 

The light was soft but a wider pattern that I hoped for.  I decided to add barn doors.

APPLYING BARN DOORS IF NEEDEDAPPLYING BARN DOORS IF NEEDEDI wanted more control of light so I added some black foil to create barn doors to close if needed. Taped the foil with gaffers tape.
 
FLASH ON TOP OF THE PIPEFLASH ON TOP OF THE PIPEInsert te flash. I am using a radio control to fire the flash.
 

I used some black foil and taped it in front of the hole with gaffers tape.  I then split the foil with a knife and folded the foil back.  I inserted the flash and used a radio trigger for another test.

 

STRIP LIGHT AT 1/28TH POWERSTRIP LIGHT AT 1/28TH POWERDKSMALL(C)
 
_DKS4801_DKS4801DKSMALL(C)
 

 


 

I can see I will be using these often. 

 It took me awhile no blueprints make up as I went.  Pipe free, cap $7.00 ea, some black foil, small amount of gaffers and two sided tape. 1/2 yard cloth, stud $8.00, swivel $16.00 and time served,  I will be making a smaller version with 4" pipe for portability.
 

On to concept shoot and see what happens.


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